Hey Joel, Welcome! Lancaster is a beautiful place and I have enjoyed many vacations there. I think that you should use your DWC to make fancy trim for the Amish carriages!
I use my CNC to make cribbage boards, what are your interests?

I really like to crank down hard on bolts holding my materiel down and the T tracks began coming up almost immediately.  I used longer wood screws but those too, eventually started pulling out. Today, I replaced them with bolts and it is terrific. I used 7/8" #8-32. The heads are lower so my bolts pass through  little easier. If your T tracks re coming up, tke  couple of hours and do this. You won't regret it.
Now about those bolts ... I don't use clamps preferring to cut my material a little long and drill holes for bolts to pass through to attach the materiel directly to the table. There is no movement. Zero, none! You must be careful to use just enough bolt to get a nut on. if they are too long the router frame may catch on the bolt and destroy your alignment.

Greetings Joe and good luck with your DWC.  I am located in Western Massachusetts on the Connecticut River about 10 miles south of Vermont. Cribbage boards are my passion and being retired, I get a lot of practice at designing, making and playing.

Hi Tad and Welcome,
I'm in Western Massachusetts in the Town of Greenfield. We are situated on the Connecticut River 10 miles south of the NH and Vermont borders. Enough of the geography lesson! I ran two CarveWright CNC routers for five years before buying the DWC. I love h open architecture of the DWC and the invaluable support of Laney and Burl. Forum contributors like Butch Elrod and Floyd Harris (another CarveWright operator) are also really helpful.
I mainly make two items: cribbage boards and anything that makes my wife happy!
Good luck!

Greetings fellow craftsmen. How do you price a sign? I currently charge by the square inch which is an easy way to establish a baseline but as you know, there are a lot of other factors that go into the completion. For instance, a VCarved sign is much faster and easier to make than one that has the same letters raised. Wood varieties and paint, two sided carves, designing and possible purchase of 3D Art all increase our costs but how to charge for those services? How do you do it?

Really well done video Laney. How many "takes" did it take?
Even though I have been running CNC Routers for about 5 years and the DWC for 9 months, there are nuances of the software that escaped me. There is a lot of great information in this two cup of coffee video (44 minutes) I encourage all DWC users to watch. You will pickup one or two useful tricks to improve your carvings and to craft the layout faster.

Hi Chris, I too had some problems with the touch off tool and now I just skip it. I find I can more precisely zero the Z axis where I want it by just putting the point of the tool bit on the surface (and some times, with a delicate font, I will cheat and set the point  .02 into the wood and call that zero.) Once you placed the point exactly where you want it, use the Offset Zero button and carve away.
I just have to tell a quick story here. I had both Laney and Burl on a conference call and on Team Viewer as my machine was drilling right down through the surface the entire board and even getting a piece of the table. All of us were scratching our collective heads when Laney noticed a very small message in the lower left corner of the CNC USB Controller. I forget the wording of the message but it obviously resonated with Laney and he asked "Where is your touch off tool right now?" I told him that it was held to the table leg by a magnet. That was my problem. The touch off tool needs to be away from the "metal stuff" while the machine is running. I use it now and again but I really prefer setting the z depth manually. And, my hat's off to Laney for solving the mystery but I resolve to find other, creative ways to screw up!

I don't have a MuscleChuck ... I have two! I like it so much that after installing one on my DWC Hitachi, I got spoiled and installed one on the router table too. They are a significant improvement over Hitachi's original chuck. If you order one, there are many variations of the MuscleChuck for various routers. The Hatachi takes the #12 model. I can't recommend these highly enough.